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What is THE BEST lighting system? |
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Hamilton's
best lighting system is the Deluxe Aluminum Metal Halide combined
with Compact Fluorescent. The compact fluorescent can be left
on all day, and the Metal Halides can be left on in the middle
of the day (4-6 hours). This simulates a dawn to dusk effect,
and the Metal Halides simulate high noon.
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What type of lighting do you recommend for a reeftank (Corals)? |
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Corals,
anemones, etc. require much lighting. The best light to supplement
a healthy marine environment is Metal Halides and Compact Fluorescents
(or T12 Fluorescent tubes). This combination of lights will
also allow you to create a dawn and dusk effect to your tank,
and will most naturally simulate natural sun.
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What type of lighting do you recommend for a Saltwater tank (Fish)? |
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Metal Halides
are not necessary, but they would make a better crisp appearance
in the tank along with a rippling effect to the water.
The Blue Compact Fluorescent bulbs in the ABS systems & retrofits,
and the Super Actinic Blue in the Fluorescent Deluxe Aluminum
Lighting systems & retrofits bring out the fluorescent vibrant
colors of your fish.
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Which bulb is better: Compact Fluorescent or (T12) Fluorescent? |
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The Compact
Fluorescents are better because they are MUCH BRIGHTER than
the VHO's and they hold their spectrum longer. The Compact Fluorescent
bulb is a new technology, and you only have to replace them
every 14-16 months while the VHO's need to be replaced every
4-6 months.
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What type of lighting do you recommend for a Freshwatertank (Plants)? |
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No Actinic
Blue lights are necessary. Use only Metal Halides or Compact
Fluorescents. Do not go any higher than a 10K bulb.
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Do you carry any other products for my aquarium besides lighting? |
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We do carry
rio pumps, Red Sea products and CPR Bak-Paks at competitively low prices, as well
as a few accessories for your lighting systems. Hamilton specializes in lighting.
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| TROUBLESHOOTING |
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What should I do if my Metal Halide won't light up? |
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The Metal
Halide may come on and off. This is normal for the first two
or three weeks. The bulb will do that a few times before staying
on. After this break-in period, the bulb should stabilize. First,
unplug your system, and let it cool down if hot. All Metal Halides
will not work unless they are allowed 30 minutes to cool down
before restarting. Then, pull the little tab on the end of the
spring inside the socket up to make sure base of bulb is in
contact with bottom of the socket. It may be that the bulb is
not making contact with the socket. Screw the bulb back in all
the way so that it is in contact with bottom of the socket.
Check bulb for internal damage, a small amount of broken glass
is normal inside the outer glass. If you have another bulb,
try it. If the second bullb does not light, the ballast may
be the problem. Check to make sure the connection from ballast
to bulb is in contact. Let the bulb burn the whole day and if
it does not light, call our technical support at 800-447-9797.
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My Fluorescent Tube is not lighting. |
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Each tube
has 4 pins (2 at each end). If one of the four
pin connections is not good or one tube is bad, the other 2
tubes will not work with the ballast on. Make sure the tube
is rotated in the socket and socket makes good contact with
each pin. Switch bulbs around. Try other tubes, if 40w system,
substitute with regular "household 40w". Make sure the customer
is using the correct wattage bulbs for his system, i.e. 40w
bulbs with 40w ballast.
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| LIGHTING
INFO. |
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What is the voltage? |
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All light
systems are made for U.S. standard 110/120 volt 60 Hz house
current 240V 60Hz. 400w and 1000w Greenhouse lights
are available (but optional). Also available on request: 100
volts 50 Hz or 60 Hz for Japan and 220V 50 Hz for Europe
and other countries.
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How many amps do the lights use? |
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Each 400
watt uses less than 5 amps of electricity at 120 volts. Each
175 watt uses less than 2 amps of electricity at 120 volts.
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